Graves End East

From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
Graves End East
Cragshot graves end east.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 35 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Heatherslade to Pwll Du
Local Area Pennard and Graves End
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.558051, -4.063488
OS Grid Ref. SS 570 863
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.566835, -4.087865
GR Parking Location SS 553873
Parking Postcode SA3 2DH
Base Elevation 50 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction South
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Seldomly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 400m

Graves End East, Graves End Wall, High Pennard, Pennard Buttress, The Great Tower

Tidal Status

Non-tidal.

Bolting Policy

Preamble

A lovely collection of buttresses, cracks and pinnacles with routes at a variety of grades. There is room for more routes.

This area of crags is massively neglected despite having some good routes. On a sunny day the views are spectacular and the area has a nice ambience.

Without frequent traffic, this crag will become overgrown as has happened at both the Western Walls and the eastern end of the crag.

Access

The easiset approach is now via Graves End Wall.

Access by walking from the eastern end of Graves End Wall is no longer possible as the route is completely overgrown.

Take the steep path below the western end of Graves End Wall and follow the path round to the east for around 160m where you can see the crag high up on your left. walk up up steeply through the gap in the lower short crag to reach the Marmolata Area.

Descents

It is possible to scramble down from the top of the climbs at various points (the gullies).

The Routes

Western Walls

The base of the climbs in this section is now very overgrown. Some of the climbs listed here are disappearing under a canopy of ivy.

  1. Baboon Traverse 27m VS,4c
    An entertaining traverse following the obvious break line from the foot of Cornel to the end of the buttress.

  2. Cornel 15m VS,4b
    This takes the first corner 5m right of the left end of the crag.

    To the right are two obvious flake cracks. The right-hand one contains a PR (Restful) the left-hand one is Nettlebed.

  3. Clapham Common 18m E4,6a
    The wall left of the flake of Nettlebed.

  4. Nettlebed 15m E1,5b
    The leftmost of the two flake cracks is gained via a problem start and some very loose jugs.

  5. Restful 15m E3,5c
    To the right of Nettlebed is an obvious curving flake. This is gained via an infamous problem using a corner to reach the break. Make steep moves into the flake and follow it to the top. The PR at 5m is missing.

  6. Ass Over Tit 18m E4,6a
    The wall immediately right of Restful, TRs.

  7. The Toboganning Incident 18m E4,6b *
    The left curling crack immediately left of the arête right of Ass Over Tit. Bounce up a short hanging crack to reach a break. Pockets above lead into the crack which is followed to an exit right at the top.

  8. Little ‘Un 15m VS,4c
    The last corner groove on the buttress.

rock climbing topo for the climb Little 'Un, Graves End East, Gower South Wales
Little 'Un

Slab Corner

rock climbing Topo for Slab Corner, Graves End East, Gower, South Wales
Slab Corner
  1. Slab Corner - S
    Climb the obvious slab. Crux at the top.

  2. Buttress - S
    Start in the second gully and climb a vagueish crack in the left-hand wall to the crest. Continue on the crest to the top.

Left Pillar

  1. Where Will It All End? 12m E3,5c
    The arête of the left pillar, finishing just left of the capping blocks.

Marmolata Area

Marmolata Area, Graves End East, Pennard Gower, South Wales
Marmolata Area, Graves End East
  1. Marmite 15m VS,4c *
    Supersedes Slab Corner (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959). Take the obvious groove and bulging flake on the left face of the second pillar.

  2. Taipan 15m E1,5b
    A very contrived eliminate up thin cracks right of Marmite, constantly struggling to avoid using holds in that route.

  3. Graves End Arête 15m E4,6a
    An exciting, if fragile pitch up the leaning arête of the second buttress. Gain the cracks in the arête directly through the bulges at the start. Follow them with difficulty. Mean and not adequately protected before the upper crack.

  4. Coffin Crack 15m VS,5a *
    This takes the wide crack/groove on the east side of the buttress.

  5. Cleansing Agent 12m VS,4c
    The thin crack left of the jammed boulder cave. Gain and follow the crack steeply to a ledge, then continue up the groove above.

  6. Marmolata 13m VS,4c
    Start right of the jammed boulder cave. Turn the jammed boulder to the right and finish up the crack above.

  7. Dial M for Merthyr 13m E3,5c
    The right trending steep flake crack between Marmolata and Breakout.

  8. Breakout 13m E1,5b *
    The obvious crack on the front face of the buttress east of Marmolata puts the hard into (Yorkshire) Hard VS. Depending on your strengths it is either a classic test of jamming technique, or the hardest layback on Gower. Either way it proves more difficult than it looks.

  9. A Grave End 15m E5,6a *
    The blunt white arête immediately right of Breakout. Clamber up onto a ledge on the right. Grope left round the arête, swing left onto it and finish more easily up cracks in the arête. Watch out for the block in the event of a fall.

  10. Overlapping Wall 12m VS
    Right of A Grave End, climb a thin overhanging crack in a wall, gain a right slanting crack, up this to a crack splitting a block and over the block to finish.

  11. White Wall 12m VD
    On the left wall of the 4th gully, start below the steep wall. Climb the corner and then exit left to the top.[1]

End of Affair Area

rock climbing topo for the climb "End of the Affair", Graves End East, Gower, South Wales
The End of the Affair
  1. The End of the Affair? 14m MS
    Right of White Wall is a grass gully then another long buttress which is vegetated. There is much dwarf blackthorn and gorse at its base. There is a prominent skyline pinnacle block. Just right of the gully the route takes a steep, left facing, corner crack to a bulge at half height. The left hand groove above is climbed to the top. Finish on a ledge to the left of the pinnacle.

End of the Affair Area, Graves End East, Pennard, Gower, South Wales
Graves End East - End of the Affair Area

First Ascents

Western Walls

  1. Baboon Traverse - N.Williams 00.00.1980
  2. Cornel - G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1977
  3. Clapham Common - M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000
  4. Nettlebed - K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974
  5. Restful - G.Evans, J.Bullock 1pt 00.00.1984
    FFA M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1986
  6. Ass Over Tit - M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000
  7. The Toboganning Incident - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 02.01.2000
  8. Little ‘Un - G.Evans 00.00.1980

Slab Corner

  1. Slab Corner - J.Talbot, Gjones 1959
  2. Buttress - J.Talbot, Gjones 1959

Left Pillar

  1. Where Will It All End? - M.Crocker solo 19.03.2000

Marmolata Area

  1. Marmite - G.Evans, J.Bullock 29.06.1977
  2. Taipan - G.Evans, J.Bullock 15.09.1982
  3. Graves End Arête - M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989
  4. Coffin Crack - J.Bullock, G.Evans 29.06.1977
  5. Cleansing Agent - G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1978
  6. Marmolata - J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959
  7. Dial M for Merthyr - J.Roberts, N.Smith 09.04.2010. Gear preplaced. Grade given for onsight.
  8. Breakout - N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1979
  9. A Grave End - M.Crocker 19.03.2000
  10. Overlapping Wall - J.White 16.04.1983
  11. White Wall - J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959

End of Affair Area

  1. The End of the Affair? - Nick Smith, Pete Morgan 13.10.2009

Additional Photos

Notes

  1. This route description is based on the description for this route in Talbot, J. (1970).