Graves End East
| Graves End East | |
| Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Trad |
| Approach Time | 35 minutes |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | Heatherslade to Pwll Du |
| Local Area | Pennard and Graves End |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.558122, -4.063884 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 570 863 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.566835, -4.087865 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 553873 |
| Parking Postcode | SA3 2DH |
| Base Elevation | 50 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South |
| Aspect | Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Seldomly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | Quick drying |
| Crags Within a Half Mile. | |
|
Graves End East, Graves End Wall, High Pennard, Pennard Buttress, Pwll Du Bay, The Great Tower | |
Contents
Tidal Status
Non-tidal.
Bolting Policy
Preamble
Access
See Pennard and Graves End Access Notes
Descents
The Routes
DESCENTS: Down gullies at various points.
This area is the natural extension to Graves End Wall and can be approached either by following the top or the base of Graves End wall eastwards. The top path drops down at the descent gully. Bear westwards to gain the left end of he crag, or east for routes right of Little ‘Un. Nettlebed buttress has some good bouldering (5b-6b) and is also surprisingly sheltered. At the far left end is a vague arête.
1. Baboon Traverse 27m VS,4c
An entertaining traverse following the obvious break line from the foot of Cornel to the end of the buttress.
N.Williams 00.00.1980
2. Cornel 15m VS,4b
This takes the first corner 5m right of the left end of the crag.
G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1977
To the right are two obvious flake cracks. The right-hand one contains a PR (Restful) the left-hand one is Nettlebed.
3. Clapham Common 18m E4,6a
The wall left of the flake of Nettlebed.
M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000
4. Nettlebed 15m E1,5b
The leftmost of the two flake cracks is gained via a problem start and some very loose jugs.
K.Wood, G.Evans 00.00.1974
5. Restful 15m E3,5c
To the right of Nettlebed is an obvious curving flake. This is gained via an infamous problem using a corner to reach the break. Make steep moves into the flake and follow it to the top. The PR at 5m is missing.
G.Evans, J.Bullock 1pt 00.00.1984 FFA M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1986
6. Ass Over Tit 18m E4,6a
The wall immediately right of Restful, TRs.
M.Crocker, J.Clapham 19.03.2000
7. The Toboganning Incident 18m E4,6b *
The left curling crack immediately left of the arête right of Ass Over Tit. Bounce up a short hanging crack to reach a break. Pockets above lead into the crack which is followed to an exit right at the top.
M.Crocker, J.Harwood 02.01.2000
8. Little ‘Un 15m VS,4c
The last corner groove on the buttress.
G.Evans 00.00.1980
To the east of the descent gully are some definite pillars.
9. Where Will It All End? 12m E3,5c
The arête of the left pillar, finishing just left of the capping blocks.
M.Crocker solo 19.03.2000
The old route Buttress (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959) has been superseded by other routes hereabouts.
10. Marmite 15m VS,4c *
Supersedes Slab Corner (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959). Take the obvious groove and bulging flake on the left face of the second pillar.
G.Evans, J.Bullock 29.06.1977
11. Taipan 15m E1,5b
A very contrived eliminate up thin cracks right of Marmite, constantly struggling to avoid using holds in that route.
G.Evans, J.Bullock 15.09.1982
12. Graves End Arête 15m E4,6a
An exciting, if fragile pitch up the leaning arête of the second buttress. Gain the cracks in the arête directly through the bulges at the start. Follow them with difficulty. Mean and not adequately protected before the upper crack.
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 05.03.1989
13. Coffin Crack 15m VS,5a *
This takes the wide crack/groove on the east side of the buttress.
J.Bullock, G.Evans 29.06.1977
14. Cleansing Agent 12m VS,4c
The thin crack left of the jammed boulder cave. Gain and follow the crack steeply to a ledge, then continue up the groove above.
G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1978
15. Marmolata 13m VS,4c
Start right of the jammed boulder cave. Turn the jammed boulder to the right and finish up the crack above.
J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959
16. Dial M for Merthyr 13m E3,5c
The right trending steep flake crack between Marmolata and Breakout.
J.Roberts, N.Smith 09.04.2010. Gear preplaced. Grade given for onsight.
17. Breakout 13m HVS,5b *
The obvious crack on the front face of the buttress east of Marmolata puts the hard into (Yorkshire) Hard VS. Depending on your strengths it is either a classic test of jamming technique, or the hardest layback on Gower. Either way it proves more difficult than it looks.
N.Williams, P.Williams 00.00.1979
18. A Grave End 15m E5,6a *
The blunt white arête immediately right of Breakout. Clamber up onto a ledge on the right. Grope left round the arête, swing left onto it and finish more easily up cracks in the arête. Watch out for the block in the event of a fall.
M.Crocker 19.03.2000
19. Overlapping Wall 12m VS
Right of A Grave End, climb a thin overhanging crack in a wall, gain a right slanting crack, up this to a crack splitting a block and over the block to finish.
J.White 16.04.1983
20. White Wall 12m VD
Scramble up the front of the pillar.
J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959
21. The End of the Affair? 14m MS
Right of White Wall is a grass gully then another long buttress which is vegetated. There is much dwarf blackthorn and gorse at its base. There is a prominent skyline pinnacle block. Just right of the gully the route takes a steep, left facing, corner crack to a bulge at half height. The left hand groove above is climbed to the top. Finish on a ledge to the left of the pinnacle.
Nick Smith, Pete Morgan 13.10.2009
