Barland Quarry

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Barland Quarry
( Gronow's Quarry )
Dan Cook on Miss You
Dan Cook on Miss You
Rock Type Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 5 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Caswell Bay to Mumbles
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.5861193, -4.0580303
OS Grid Ref. SS 575894
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.584641, -4.058862
GR Parking Location SS 574893
Parking Postcode SA3 3JG
Base Elevation 45 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction North East
Aspect Rarely Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Never
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 400m

Barland Quarry

BMC RAD
RAD Notice/Restriction Barland Quarry@BMC RAD



Barland Quarry
Sport Grades
<= 6a+ 5
6b - 6c+ 7
7a - 7b 2
>= 7b+ 1


TIDAL STATUS

Non-tidal.

BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.

Hangers,bolts and a drill are available from the SWBF for any one with the "nouse" or inclination to use them for installing the missing bolts on the 7b+ and regearing the adjacent routes.

PREAMBLE

Originally known as Gronow's Quarry[1]. Smooth low-angled slab. Allegedly the "most technical slabs in South Wales". Quarried limestone but mostly slate-like climbing on tiny edges. Some of the harder climbs have a preponderance of desperate smeary moves. Dries very quickly; one of the more accessible sport crags on Gower.

This large slab has seen a recent re-equipment on some of the routes 'vandalised' by the Site Manager's JCB. The first pitch of Don't' Jis on my Sofa is now fully equipped.

Climbs to the left of Miss You are subject to frequent rockfall.

If you want to climb the harder routes then you may need to give some of the more delicate smears a light soft brushing to remove dust (no wire brushing as this will only polish the rock).

ACCESS



To find your desired crag, type the name in to the Filter Markers box (top right corner of the map).

Loading map...

This quarry is on the right (north) hand side of the big bend coming out of Bishopston on the B4436, immediately past the turn off to Pwll Du.

Work at the quarry appears to be very intermittent. Whilst climbers have been asked to leave in the past, in recent times this seems to have happened on only rare occasions. Please note, if you are ever asked to leave then you should do so and remain courteous.

Do not enter or park by the quarry gates. Instead park in the nearby layby then walk down the track into the shrubs. Follow a faint track to the ricketty bridge over the river then scramble up and follow the gravel track round and down to the left to reach the very obvious main slab. 5 minutes from the layby.

Using the quarry entrance gate may seem easier but the" backdoor entry" is more discrete.

DESCENTS

All routes descend by lowering off or abseil. The two long routes require more than one abseil even with a 60m rope.

THE ROUTES

Barland Quarry

After a short initial slab, a superb low-angled 60m slab dominates the quarry. Some of the lowest bolt hangers on a couple of routes have been smashed off by a rogue JCB bucket. You can always climb adjacent routes first and clip the second lowest bolt on lowering off. Routes described from left to right.

  1. Jap’s Eye - Fr.6a
    The first short route up the slab has a tricky finish. 12m.

  2. Cheesy Flaps - Fr.5
    The line to the right of Jap’s Eye. Easy climbing to a slightly harder finish. 13m.

  3. Double Dutch - Fr.6c+
    The slab to the right of Cheesy Flaps has a very hard start and a hard finish. The holes are off route! 15m.

  4. Mister Polite Goad - Fr.6c+
    A hard move up to the first hole with easier climbing at the finish. 15m.

  5. Miss You - Fr.6b+
    The start of the quality climbing on the slab. A tricky move at the start, an easier middle section with some interesting moves at the last two staples. 17m.

  6. Rotbeest - Fr.7b+
    The first route on the continuous area of slab has a hideous move at two-thirds height which may prove even more stressful as the route has "lost" its bolt hangers. 17m.

  7. Wandelanden Tak - Fr.7a *
    The next line on the slab, starting above a pile of stones and a big stick. A technical start leads to a tricky section to gain the fifth BR, then step right from the good edge to join Geef Onze Fietsen Terug. Lower off the twin BB. BOLT HANGERS REPLACED 2022. 17m.

  8. Geef Onze Fietsen Terug! - Fr.6c+ **
    The first long long route that swaggers up the biggest section of unbroken slabs. Take a lot of quickdraws. Start where a pile of bicycles used to be[2] at the base of the crag (about 4m right of Wandelanden Tak) and make this and continue up to the BB by the long hole at 50m. Abseil off. N.B. The second pitch has seen some re-equipping of the crumbled bolt hangers and final belay. LOWER BOLTS REPLACED 2022. Watch rope length when lowering off!! 50m.

  9. Stoeipoesje - Fr.6c+ *
    BOLTS REPLACED 2022. Marginally more run out than the other routes - the slab right of Geef Onze Fietsen Terug to a BB at18m. 18m.

  10. Wij Zitten Nog In Een Sneeuwstorm - Fr.6b+ *
    The slab to the right of Stoeipoesje and left of the groove, to a scoop at 18m. Step right to the belay of the next route. Sustained at this grade, intense and with some quality moves! BOLTS REPLACED 2022. 18m.

  11. Stinking Of Fish - Fr.6a+
    The crack in the slab right of Wij Zitten Nog In Een Sneeuwstorm to join and finish up Telefunken U47. A Rock 8 is no longer needed to protect the entry to the groove. Now fully bolted, no one will "tell" if you take some wires for practice. 18m.

  12. Telefunken U47 - Fr.5c
    The obvious groove to a BB at 18m. BOLTS RENEWED 2022. 18m.

  13. Don’t Jis On My Sofa - Fr.6a+ **
    As for Telefunken U47 to the BB, then continue up to a vague corner in the roof. Swing left to a good jug and finish up the slightly tricky slab above BB. Abseil off. N.B. The second pitch has seen re-equipping of some hangers and a double bolt belay. Take care with rope length when lowering 50m.

  14. Bobby Brown Goes Down - Fr. 6b **
    Another long voyage across the length of the slabs and roofs. Start up the groove or crack of Stinking of Fish, break left to the belays at the first break then traverse left to the belay of Geef Onze... and up the dramatic finale. Take care with rope lowering. Two abs. 60m.

  15. Ik Kan Mijn Ei Niet Kwijt - Fr.7a+
    Recently regained it's hangers and double bolt belay. Totally hideous, the hardest off vertical moves in SE Wales. The slab to the right of Don’t Jis On My Sofa has a hard start. If successful, continue more easily, to a totally vile series of huge rock ups on smears, stepping left to reach 18m.the BB.
Barland quarry panorama.jpg

Additional Photos

  • Gate Buttress

  • Gate Buttress

  • Barland Quarry. Main Slab
    Photo: Oli Buxton

First Ascents

  1. Jap’s Eye - R.Thomas 00.01.1998
  2. Cheesy Flaps - R.Thomas 20.03.1999
  3. Double Dutch - G.Gibson 00.01.1998
  4. Mister Polite Goad - G.Gibson 1998
  5. Miss You - G.Gibson 1998
  6. Rotbeest - G.Ashmore 25.08.1997
  7. Wandelanden Tak - G.Ashmore 17.08.1997
  8. Geef Onze Fietsen Terug! - G.Ashmore, J.Tracey 16.08.1997
  9. Stoeipoesje - G.Ashmore 25.08.1997
  10. Wij Zitten Nog In Een Sneeuwstorm - G.Ashmore 13.04.1998
  11. Stinking Of Fish - R.Thomas 07.06.1998
  12. Telefunken U47 - R.Thomas 07.06.1998
  13. Don’t Jis On My Sofa - R.Thomas 00.08.1998
  14. Bobby Brown Goes Down - R.Thomas 00.00. 2005
  15. Ik Kan Mijn Ei Niet Kwijt - G.Ashmore 14.09.1998

Notes

  1. ↑ See: http://www.coflein.gov.uk/en/site/420300/details/barland-quarry-kittle
  2. ↑ If you think this description is being deliberately obtuse, then you should enlighten yourselves by reading the note in Gower and S. E. Wales (2003): p.224.
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