Herberts Quarry (Black Mountain)
|Herberts Quarry (Black Mountain)|
|Rock Type||Quarried Carboniferous Limestone|
|WGS-84 Location||51.854417, -3.835990|
|OS Grid Ref.||SN 736 189|
|WGS-84 Parking Location|
|GR Parking Location|
|Base Elevation||500 metres (SRTM Estimation)|
|Crags Within 10.0 km.|
A great roadside venue with sport, trad and bouldering to go at in these old quarries. Its high up, so an ideal spot to escape the summer heat, but don't expect a warm welcome in winter.
West Wall is straight up the slope from the car park. Foel Fawr Wall is off to the left a few hundred meters. East Wall is a few minutes around to the left in the main quarry, but you won't want to climb there once you see it!
Straight up from the car park is a large wall at the back of a quarry. There is some lovely mossy saxifrage here, so careful where your stomp about. The first routes are on the far left on a set back wall of good rock.
- Doochie Coochie - E4,6b
Start 4m left of the corner. Head up the peg, then make difficult moves up and left to finish. 15 metres.
- Project -
Line of bolts. 15 metres.
- Cold Hard Stair - Fr. 5+
Follow the blocky ledges up the wall. 15 metres.
right side of the cliff are the following routes:
- Wool Bully - HVS,5a
Towards the right-hand side of the cliff is a pinkish groove with a couple of pegs in, climb this. 15 metres.
- Sharp Right Turn - Fr.6a
Follow the groove before shifting right onto the mini slab to finish. 15 metres.
- A Bird In The Hand - S,4a
Follow the discontinuous corner on the right side of the crag. 15 metres.
Foel Fawr Wall
Rightwards from the car park, just before a large flat area is encountered, is a large bay with a number of small walls containing micro routes and some good boulder problems. The first wall encountered has a huge block of rock on its right that looks like its ready to collapse. Belay off stakes.
- Through The Tears – HVS,5b
Short, but punchy. Technical moves up the wall left of the arete with sufficient protection. 7m
- Through The Bulge – VS,5a
A steep pull round the bulge to finish easily up the slab. 8m
- Through The Gap - VS
Start on the right side of the crag. Climb the slab at the bottom and then through slightly overhanging gap in face before completing on upper slab. 8m.
The next wall left has many cracks ready for a trad hero to claim the first ascent.
Left again, just beofre the large flat area, is the best bit of rock in this area.
- Summer Madness - E2,6a
Start below the leaning tower on the left. Use a big undercut and then a pinch up slightly left to grab a finger-jug rail above the bulge. Swing right and take jugs spectacularly up the short headwall. 8m.
- Sophism – E1,5c **
Follow the obvious finger crack to the top, steeper than it looks. Well protected, or V1 solo. 7m
- Supermoon – E1,5c
The sustained groove on the right. A bold start; OKish microwire protection thereafter. High in the grade. Take unaccommodating holds over the bulge to a thin vertical crack (first gear at 6 metres). Using an undercut on the left enter the groove, and finish strenuously direct using a finger-pocket. 7m
- Trundle – S
Gain the crack on the far right side of the wall from the right wall, taking care with the rock to finish. 8m
There are also plenty of boulder problems on this wall(British 5c to 6b), with plenty of scope for eliminates and a nice traverse along the bottom.
To the left of this wall ia a clean block with a beautiful arete.
- Left Wall - V0
Left wall of the block.
- The Arête - V1
Climb the photogenic arete.
- The Crack - V0
The finger crack in the right wall.
- Right Arête - V0
Rounden right arete of the block.
Found 300m to the north of the car park and at a lower level, this wall can be easily identified by the clusted of stakes at its top. Its easy angle and generous holds makes it an ideal spot for beginers, so is regually used by groups. There are 6 or so independent lines to enjoy.
This is the large quarry, furthest from the road an on the north side of the mountain. A 24m wall is topped with blocks and surrounded by shattered rock. Climbing here is not advised.
- Nine Below Zero - E4,6a
Climb up to a peg, then move left and up to a horizontal break (thread, two pegs and bolt). Trend leftwards over blocks to a bolt belay. 25 metres.
- Can't Do My Homework - E1,5b
2 bolts? 25 metres.
- Mojo - VS,4c
Climb a crack in the right-hand side of the vertical wall (thread) into a bay at half height; peg belay. 25 metres.
THE WINTER ROUTES
- Left Route - III/IV
The left most route. 15 metres.
- Central Route - III/IV
The central route. 15 metres.
- Right Route - III/IV
The right most route. 15 metres.
- Doochie Coochie - P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 1988
- Closed Project - Matt Woodfield
- Cold Hard Stair - Matt Woodfield, Steffan Jacob 2023
- Wool Bully - P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 1988
- Sharp Right Turn - Steffan Jacob, Matt Woodfield 2023
- A Bird In The Hand - Matt Woodfield, Steffan Jacob 2023
Foel Fawr Wall
- Matt Woodfield, Steffan Jacob 2023
- Matt Woodfield, Steffan Jacob 2023
- Gareth Tucker July 2007
- Gareth Tucker, T.Panthaman September 2006
- Martin Crocker 2015
- Steffan Jacob, Matt Woodfield 2023
- Nine Below Zero - P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 1988
- Can't Do My Homework - P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 1988
- Mojo - P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 1988
- Left Route -
- Central Route Gd -
- Right Route -