Far Eastern Edge

Far Eastern Edge
Rock Type	Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style	Trad
Approach Time	10 minutes
Area	Inland Limestone
Sub Area	Llangattock
Geodata
WGS-84 Location
OS Grid Ref.
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation	metres
General Info
Faces Direction
Aspect
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
Seepage

PREAMBLE

The edge here is formed around a main central bay. There is a slabby area on the left below a skyline level tree. The central part has an overhang at 6m and a central groove below, which is often wet. The right-hand part features a small cave below an arête.

Although less imposing than many other parts of Llangattock, the Far Eastern Edge has a number of interesting routes and is well worth a visit.

ACCESS

This is the small cliff at the extreme left-hand end of the escarpment. From the west side of the car park a small track leads straight through bracken to the Eastern Edge. Follow this to the edge and then walk about 300m east to reach the Far Eastern Edge.

THE ROUTES

1. Mirror 25m VS,4c

Start right of grass ledges on the left side of the bay. Climb up a corner in the lower slabs and avoid a prickly bush to reach ledges. Move right and climb cracks on the left to finish.

J.Harwood, ANO 31.00.1983

2. Waiting For Those Summer Evenings 25m HVS,5a

Start immediately right of Mirror at a thin crack leading to the small overhang. Surmount this, then a move right, PR gains the right-hand side of the slab. Finish easily.

P.Bruten, L.Davies, P.Thomas 16.04.1989

3. Barndoorer 25m VS,4c

Start as for Waiting For Those Summer Evenings, but strike immediately right towards the right end of the overhang. Using the arête, quickly make an awkward move, then ascend the right edge of the slab.

L.Davies 06.04.1991

4. Only The Lonely 25m HVS,5a

A variation on Barndoorer. Gain the right-hand side of the overhang and using the arête, making a barn-door move to gain the upper wall. Finish easily.

L.Davies 00.00.1991

5. Reunion 22m E1,5b *

This finishes up the left side of the clean wall below the prominent skyline tree. Start as for Only The Lonely and climb the corner and a second corner to round the overhang and reaches ledges. Follow finger cracks up the left side of the clean wall.

J.Harwood 27.05.1986

6. Class Of 66 22m E2,5c

Start 3m right of Reunion below the skyline tree. Climb up slabs to just left of centre of the clean top wall. Climb this via a very shallow depression in the grey wall.

J.Harwood 27.05.1986

7. Rock In A Slot 22m E3,5c *

Follow the water marks on the right side of the clean wall, immediately below the rowan tree at the cliff top. 2PRs.

T.Penning, J.Boosey, K.Mumford, J.Harwood 05.09.1999

8. Invert 22m HVS,5a

Climb slabs below the prominent skyline tree to the top wall. Move right and climb the wall, just right of the smoothest part to a small ledge. Move up and left to finish at the tree.

J.Harwood, ANO 31.05.1983

The central part of the bay is distinguished by a long overhang, at about 6m. A crack on the left side leads to a break level with the overhang.

9. Whoops Brian 12m HS,4a

Climb the crack to the break at 6m. Move left to reach easy ground and then go up to a tree. It is also possible to climb the strepped crack directly above the break. This is 5a and a bit loose.

A.Bidwell, D.Jury 18.10.1998

10. Alien Summer 18m E3,5c

The best line on the central wall. Climb the corner in the centre of the central wall to the roof. Move left and follow the finger cracks in the wall above to exit left.

J.Boosey, T.Penning, K.Mumford, J.Harwood 05.09.1999

11. Schools Out Forever 30m E4,6a *

An improbable line taking the short, hanging groove above the overhang 7m right of Alien Summer. Climb the wall to the break and a gap in the overhang, PR, jammed nut. Pull over and left into the hanging groove and climb to the overhang, PR. Traverse left to ledges, then climb up past two small trees to a ledge. Finish up the groove on the right past a borehole thread.

T.Penning, N.Mullin 24.09.2002

The right-hand part of the bay houses a cliff divided into two by an arête. At the bottom of the arête is a small cave.Stakes in place above.

12. Sound Barrier 20m E3,6a *

A good pitch up the left side of the steep wall, which is the left flank of the righthand cliff. Climb easily up to reach the steep wall and follow a thin crack on its left side, 4PRs. Trend right at the top to a bushy tree belay.Two stakes are now located above the following batch of routes( april 2021)

T.Penning, J.Boosey, K.Mumford, J.Harwood 05.09.1999

13. Edge Of Silence 22m E4,6b *

An interesting pitch taking the thin crack in the steep wall to the left of the arête of Cotton Wood Café. Start 6m left of the small cave. Climb up with interest to reach the crack. Follow this with even more interest, 3PRs.

T.Penning, J.Harwood, B.Sparrow 18.08.1998

14. Cotton Wood Café 22m E2,5b *

Start at a small cave below the arête on the right-hand side of the bay. Climb a rounded groove above the cave to ledges at 10m, trend left to the arête and finish up this.

J.James,S.Thompson 00.00.1986

15. Wowaiuh 12m VS,4b

Start as for Cotton Wood Café but follow the obvious rightward-rising traverse line to a ledge (the BB has gone, so improvise an escape)!

L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.00.1990

16. Wrestling The Polar Bear 20m E3,5c *

The overhanging crackline just right of Cottonwood Café. Finish as for the latter or as for Hesitation.

P.Thomas, L.Davies 00.00.1990

17. Hesitation 20m HVS,4c *

Takes the crack and groove just right of Wrestling The Polar Bear and then two walls to finish at the obvious tree. Pleasant.

T.Penning, J.Harwood, D.Jury, B.Sparrow, D.Parker 18.10.1998

18. Bid The Return 10m E3,6a (Fr 6c)

It is not known whether this route has been repeated since the BR was removed. Start 4m right of Wrestling The Polar Bear, below an obvious shothole at 2m. Move up and right to the shot hole, then up and left to gain the groove, (BR, removed). Climb the groove with difficulty to exit right.

L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.04.1993