Llanbradach

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BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.Owing to a lack of response for volunteers to make use of the BMC rebolting equipment it will be used elsewhere.The old rusty gear will just have to remain unless someone/persons step up to the mark.

PREAMBLE

A quarry for the sandstone Connoisseur!

The adventurous, hardy and experienced will relish the infrequently trafficked delights of this big venue. In contrast, those lacking in such fine attributes may be altogether uninspired by the place.

The reasons for the contrast of opinion on Llanbradach are threefold.

Firstly, getting the correct conditions for a visit here is crucial. The permanent pool and enclosed nature of the bottom tier provide a near tropical atmosphere in which small biting midges thrive. A hot and still summer evening visit will invariably end quickly and in disappointment. To avoid the midges, either; come in early sping/late autumn, during the afternoon or, on a windy day.

Secondly, the layout is difficult to get to grips with. The path accessing the routes in the bottom tier doesn't link the left and right hand wings, it ends in an impassable jungle below the back wall (below the upper tier). Even when you get into the bottom tier, the dense vegetation makes it difficult to see the various adjacent buttresses, let alone the middle tier routes around The Expansionist. The upper tier has a separate approach.Continue walking along the track by the railwayignoring smaller paths heading into thelower quarry.About 5 mins along along the track then cut back right up an obvious gentle wide incline for another5 mins.Compared to the plethora of alternative roadside quarries nearby, accessing it requires a certain amount of determination and resolve.

The third reason is the rock itself; at its worst, it is best described as porous, sandy and brittle. Exciting for some, terrifying for others. However, the bolting is good and, as with most sandstone, if you see plants growing you should treat the surrounding rock with the utmost suspicion. For those wishing to tackle the less frequented routes, a clip stick,helmet,brush and redpoint ethic may be the most suitable approach.

All things considered, for those who prefer their pint half full rather than empty, the sheer quantity of long, mid-grade, sports routes and the unique atmosphere at Llanbradach elevates it to the upper echelons of sandstone venues. Don't discount it after one or two cursory visits, persevere and you will be rewarded.

AREAS

Llanbradach Upper Tier

Llanbradach Lower Tier

Llanbradach Winter Routes

ACCESS

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 June. Reports suggest peregrine are nesting on the upper tier - please avoid climbing here during these dates. See: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/view.aspx?id=832.

This is the hole in the hillside to the west of Llanbradach village, just north of Caerphilly. Enter the village from the south and park courteously near the traffic calming narrowing. 30m south of the calming is a steep gravel track leading to a metal gate under a masonry railway bridge. Go under the bridge and turn left. After 50m a path on the right leads through trees to the Pool. The Bas-Chevaliers area is accessed by turning right into the trees just before the remains of sturdy gateposts. The upper tier is accessed by continuing walking a furtherfew minutes and turning right sharply uphill along an old incline tram line. If on foot, get the train to Llanbradach and walk south (Cardiff direction) along the side of the tracks, until it is possible to break out right onto a track, which leads to the quarry mouth in about 300m.

To find your desired crag, type the name in to the Filter Markers box (top right corner of the map).

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DESCENTS

Almost all routes have individual or shared bolt belays.

Carl Childs on "Internal Reflection", Fr.6aA, Llanbradach, South Wales
Carl Childs on Internal Reflection Fr.6aA

Pages in category ‘Llanbradach’

The following 2 pages are in this category, out of 2 total.

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