Dinas - Cave Area

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Dinas - Cave Area
Rock Type Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 12 minutes
Area Inland Limestone
Sub Area Dinas Rock
WGS-84 Location
OS Grid Ref.
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation metres
General Info
Faces Direction
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
RAD Notice/Restriction Dinas - Cave Area@BMC RAD

1. Academy Awards - Fr.6c **

Starting from the path, below the left-hand end of the terrace, move easily up to the obvious roof at 6m. Move through this via a painful slot and continue up the easy wall to a prominent long v-groove. Negotiation of this often proves difficult. Pull out of the slot to good holds on the upper slab and finish direct to a BB. 29m,

2. Cream Academy - Fr.6b+ *

From the BB on the terrace, trend up and right up a ramp gaining the roof at a groove. Pull off into this. Finish direct. 18m

3. El Camino Del Roy -- Fr.6c+ **

To the right is a prominent sharp-cut square groove at 11m. Gain this directly and climb it with difficulty to make an awkward move onto the upper slab. Finish directly over the upper slab. 18m

4. Danny La Rue - Fr.7b *

Climb ‘’El Camino’’ to the ledge at 6m. Move rightwards and climb steeply through the twin roofs which leads to a good rest position on the hanging slab. Finish as for 'El Camino'. 18m

5. Incidentally X - Fr.7b+ *

A bouldery little number to the right of Danny La Rue, climbed by means of an improbable heel-hook and pinch. 18m

6. Tortilla Flats - Fr.7b *

A horribly dirty start up the arête to the right, leads to the base of a slanting groove. This is full of cheese, but the hidden monos in the back of the groove are good - if you can guess where they are! The crux is at the top of the groove - a jump for a large pocket. Finish easily. 18m

7. Pour Marcel - Fr.7b *

Climb up the right-hand side of the cave, then make difficult moves up on small pockets. From these reach a sloper either statically or ‘by the best jump you’ll get all year’. Finish direct with some interest. 17m

The next two routes supersede Let’s Tango In Paris E3,6b (G.Gibson 1991), that came in from Brazilian Blend.

8. Brazilian Blend - Fr.6c+ **

Start up the corner to the right and pull round the roof to the right. Pull blindly up left and finish up the slab above. 21m

9. Sverige - Fr.7a

Start up the sloping corner right of Brazilian Blend then pull left to the centre of the wall at 9m. Surmount the overlap and make some tricky moves up to the final roof. Only for those who have ticked the rest of the wall. 20m

10. Ma’s Strict - Fr.7a+ *

As for Sverige, but pull over rightwards at a tree stump. Climb the extremely sequency wall above on small pockets to a baffling move through a roof. 17m

11. Breakout - Fr.6c **

Nothing too difficult. Basically follow the natural line up from where Sverige and Ma’s Strict go left. 15m

12. Vitamin Z - E4,6b

Start at a corner to the right of the caves, climb the corner, step right and make a hard pull over the bulge, poor PR. Pull past this with difficulty and continue to an abseil tree. 21m

13. Under The Boardwalk - E3,6a

Start as for Vitamin Z. Climb the corner to some large blocks on the right. Move up left over the bulge to the horizontal break. Climb left to an obvious groove, and follow this to a tree belay. Abseil off. 27m

First Ascents

1. R.Thomas 00.00.1995

2. T.Penning, J.Harwood 14.05.1985

3. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 14.05.1994

4. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 08.04.1995

5. G.Gibson 23.03.1985, G.Gibson - ALCH 00.00.1995

6. G.Gibson 09.04.1995

7. G.Gibson 14.05.1994

8. G.Gibson 19.05.1985

9. G.Gibson, T.Penning, M.Ward 19.05.1985

10. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 25.03.1995

11. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 01.09.1983

12. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985

13. L.Francombe, A. Reed 00.00.1981