Category talk:Ogmore

From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search

Martin Crocker's New info

From an email from Martin Crocker to Tim Hoddy (7 Nov 2018)

Needs to be merged in.


Worn-Out Superman E7 6b (Fr7b)
This provides probably the most spectacular ‘deep’ water solo in Tiger Bay. First solo ascent: Martin Crocker 25.9.2003. Recorded on film – see YouT\ ube.

Sense of Adventure Wall

Sense or Dementia 45m E1 5b (4.10.2009)
Very enjoyable climbing, which aims to take in the steepest and technically most interesting climbing on this face. Start at the left end of the narrow pool under the cliff, right of Sense \ of Adventure. Climb up to a bulge right of the crack of Sense of Adventure, pull over and take a direct line up the wall to good belays on a ledge. Finish as for Sense of Adventure.
FA: Martin Crocker, John Harwood

Eastern/Beecher’s Brook area

Upside-down Land 20m E5 6a (11.7.2008)
A titanic tussle and high in the grades: it climbs through the roof right of the Pontoon rib. Start 2m right of the rib, under the roof at 12m. From a ledge at 3m climb the wall right of th\ e rib to a left-facing sidecut in the roof (Rock 7 placement in sidecut). Stretch right around the ceiling (peg) and pull over with difficulty (Friend 1.5 placement above). Now – easy but c\ runchy – climb the wall just right of the rib to the belay ledge.
FA: Martin Crocker (led with Soloist)

Simple Twist is defunct due to a large rockfall at the roof.

The next two routes are marred only by the need to pre-fix an abseil rope: this should be positioned intelligently, in view of the slightly unstable slope above the cliff.

Night Games 20m E3 5c (7.85)
A fine pumping route – Arms Race style. It climbs the intermittent crack in the leaning right-hand wall of the deep recess. Start from the platform under the recess. Climb a groove in the r\ ecess slightly leftwards for 6m. Traverse right 2m onto the wall along breaks and gain the crack with a long reach. Follow the crack to wide breaks; then push on diagonally rightwards to a \ ledge atop the arête To Mitzy…

To Mitzy a Pup E4 6a (22.7.79)
A superb line – the sharp arête – with a bold start in this format. Start from the platform under the left-hand side of the arête. From a good horizontal pounce up right (crux) and make a b\ old but steady move up right again for a good crack. Step left and move up to a ledge on the arête. Follow the edge of the arête with a tricky section up to a slight overhang. Belay on the \ ledge above.
FA: The new section up to the ledge on the arête was led by Martin Crocker with Soloist, 8 July 2008. (The original came in from the right to that point: E3 5c. A significant grey scar at\ two-thirds height suggests a rockfall between the two ascents.)

Hare’s Pace 14m E1 5b (9.9.2007)
An eliminate with the usual bold start and scary overhanging finish. Climb the wall between the V-shaped cracks of Tri-Via and L’Escargot past an obvious small hold. From the ledge above, c\ limb through bulging rock in line with a white crystalline seam.
FA: Martin Crocker (led on sight with Soloist)

Any Spirits will Do 15m HVS 4c (9.9.2007)
Follow Red Rum for 7m to the first good horizontal break in the right wall of the crack. Traverse right 2 metres, and move up to a wide break. Go up the brown wall to ledges. Belay and walk\ off right.
FA: Martin Crocker (led on sight with Soloist)

Nein Nein 25m E4 6a (9.9.2007)
A gem; on the best rock on this cliff. Low in the grade. The route sweeps across the black wall above the Becher’s pool. Follow Red Rum for 7m to the first good horizontal break in the righ\ t wall of the crack. Traverse along the break for 6m until beneath a small triangular overhang. Move up steeply and enter a scoop immediately right of the overhang. Work out delicately onto\ ledges. Belay and walk off right.
FA: Martin Crocker (unseconded)

Swim for your Life! 12m E3 5b (9.9.2007)
A fine if bold route up the north-facing wall of the Becher’s Brook promontory. Start on a small flat ledge 2m above the pool; small cam belay. Take a slight crack; then work up the wall wi\ th no more gear until a positive break under a vertical crack. Climb the crack over an overlap to the top.
FA: Martin Crocker (led with Soloist; noticed some scratch marks in the vertical crack, so may have been climbed before? Name reflects a close call the day before.)