Bantam Bay

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Bantam Bay
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time
Area Gower
Sub Area Heatherslade to Pwll Du
WGS-84 Location
OS Grid Ref.
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation metres
General Info
Faces Direction
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type

GR 574865


Non-tidal, although the approach is sometimes cut off at spring tides.



This is the sort of crag that only a local or seasoned Gower visitor would be interested in finding. It does tend to become dirty from under-use and the finishes are atrocious, but the climbing is good.


The walk in is either by following the path round from Graves End or Pwll Du for ½ mile (refer to these sections for details) to reach the first obvious cove, which is Bantam Bay itself.


A lower off rope is essential for the routes here.


The routes start at a small crag just round to the left of Bantam Bay proper.

  1. The Rugby Club - VS,4c
    At the left side is a small pinnacle with an overhanging crack at its left-hand side. 15m.

  2. Big Crack - VS,4c
    The distinctive crack on the far left end of the craglet proper. 15m.

  3. Phil Lynott - HVS,5a
    To the right of the crack is a shallow overhanging corner. 15m.

  4. Stepped Corner - E1,5b
    At the right-hand side of the bay is a stepped corner. 15m.

    Further right, the crag becomes slabby and overgrown until the rock breaks through with a roof and corner.

  5. Egged On - E2,5c
    Follow cracks to the middle of the roof, which is taken at its centre. Move right to finish. 18m.

  6. Rampant Cockerel - E2,5c
    The corner to the obvious roof. Move right and pull over it strenuously. Continue up the wall above. 18m.

  7. Don't Count Your Chickens - E2,5c
    Start just right of the arête at an overhang. Boulder to gain a crack, which leads to hard moves left onto a ledge. Move back right and to the top. 18m.

  8. Ruffled Feathers - E2,6b *
    A good route taking the perfect splitting crack in the centre of the wall. The start is a heinous boulder problem taken from the left. 18m.

  9. Gift Horse - E1,5b
    The obvious corner crack. 18m.

  10. Wide Eyed And Legless - E1,5b
    The thin crack in the short wall to the right. Step back left and follow the groove above. This route has been completely overgrown by ivy. 15m.

    There is also a 12m quarried wall further back, undercut by a cave left of centre. There is an obvious rusty stain.

  11. Fought Shitening Crack - E4,5c
    The wide crack on the left, to a bold swing right to the finish of Alarm Race. 12m.

  12. Alarm Race - E4,5c *
    The overhanging finger jam cracks just left of the chimney and the obvious continuation. 12m.

  13. Roast Dinner Man's Rift - E3,5c
    The obvious chimney. 12m.

  14. Hip 'Op - E6,6b ***
    Start 2m right of the chimney, pull up flake cracks into a groove and gain good lay offs above, TR. Stretch right onto the headwall, PR and make a long move for pockets and the top. 12m.

  15. Piss Off - E6,6b
    To the right, hard moves up the rust streak by a boss of rock past microwires lead to an exit through conglomerate. Sounds great. 12m.

  16. Lift Off - E1,5b
    Gain the slim corner moving right at the top to join Blast Off. 11m.

  17. Blast Off - E2,5b
    The overhanging cracks right of the slim corner. 11m.

  18. Right Edge - S
    Gain Direct from the diagonal crack down and right. Finish up Direct, or up the arête. 12m.


  1. The Rugby Club - P.Christie, G.Morris Pre-1991
  2. Big Crack - J.Bullock, L.Moran Pre-1991
  3. Phil Lynott - P.Christie, G.Morris Pre-1991
  4. Stepped Corner - J.Bullock, L.Moran Pre-1991
  5. Egged On - M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.11.1985
  6. Rampant Cockerel - C.Parkin, P.Blackburn 00.00.1985
  7. Don't Count Your Chickens - P.Blackburn, J.Kitching 00.00.1985
  8. Ruffled Feathers - M.Learoyd, R.Thomas, G.Royle 07.11.1985
  9. Gift Horse - G.Royle, R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 07.11.1985
  10. Wide Eyed And Legless - P.Blackburn, J.Kitching 00.00.1985
  11. Fought Shitening Crack - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.07.2001
  12. Alarm Race - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.07.2001
  13. Roast Dinner Man's Rift - M.Crocker 22.07.2001
  14. Hip 'Op - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.07.2001
  15. Piss Off - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000
  16. Lift Off - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000
  17. Blast Off - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000
  18. Right Edge - Unknown 00.00.1958