Bantam Bay
From South Wales Climbing Wiki
| Bantam Bay | |
| Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Trad |
| Approach Time | |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | Heatherslade to Pwll Du |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | |
| OS Grid Ref. | |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | |
| GR Parking Location | |
| Base Elevation | metres |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | |
| Aspect | |
| Wind Sheltered | |
| Climbing Type | |
| Seepage | |
GR 574865
Contents
TIDAL STATUS
Non-tidal, although the approach is sometimes cut off at spring tides.
BOLTING POLICY
PREAMBLE
This is the sort of crag that only a local or seasoned Gower visitor would be interested in finding. It does tend to become dirty from under-use and the finishes are atrocious, but the climbing is good.
ACCESS
The walk in is either by following the path round from Graves End or Pwll Du for ½ mile (refer to these sections for details) to reach the first obvious cove, which is Bantam Bay itself.
DESCENTS
A lower off rope is essential for the routes here.
THE ROUTES
The routes start at a small crag just round to the left of Bantam Bay proper.
- The Rugby Club - VS,4c
At the left side is a small pinnacle with an overhanging crack at its left-hand side. 15m. - Big Crack - VS,4c
The distinctive crack on the far left end of the craglet proper. 15m. - Phil Lynott - HVS,5a
To the right of the crack is a shallow overhanging corner. 15m. - Stepped Corner - E1,5b
At the right-hand side of the bay is a stepped corner. 15m.
Further right, the crag becomes slabby and overgrown until the rock breaks through with a roof and corner. - Egged On - E2,5c
Follow cracks to the middle of the roof, which is taken at its centre. Move right to finish. 18m. - Rampant Cockerel - E2,5c
The corner to the obvious roof. Move right and pull over it strenuously. Continue up the wall above. 18m. - Don't Count Your Chickens - E2,5c
Start just right of the arête at an overhang. Boulder to gain a crack, which leads to hard moves left onto a ledge. Move back right and to the top. 18m. - Ruffled Feathers - E2,6b *
A good route taking the perfect splitting crack in the centre of the wall. The start is a heinous boulder problem taken from the left. 18m. - Gift Horse - E1,5b
The obvious corner crack. 18m. - Wide Eyed And Legless - E1,5b
The thin crack in the short wall to the right. Step back left and follow the groove above. This route has been completely overgrown by ivy. 15m.
There is also a 12m quarried wall further back, undercut by a cave left of centre. There is an obvious rusty stain. - Fought Shitening Crack - E4,5c
The wide crack on the left, to a bold swing right to the finish of Alarm Race. 12m. - Alarm Race - E4,5c *
The overhanging finger jam cracks just left of the chimney and the obvious continuation. 12m. - Roast Dinner Man's Rift - E3,5c
The obvious chimney. 12m. - Hip 'Op - E6,6b ***
Start 2m right of the chimney, pull up flake cracks into a groove and gain good lay offs above, TR. Stretch right onto the headwall, PR and make a long move for pockets and the top. 12m. - Piss Off - E6,6b
To the right, hard moves up the rust streak by a boss of rock past microwires lead to an exit through conglomerate. Sounds great. 12m. - Lift Off - E1,5b
Gain the slim corner moving right at the top to join Blast Off. 11m. - Blast Off - E2,5b
The overhanging cracks right of the slim corner. 11m. - Right Edge - S
Gain Direct from the diagonal crack down and right. Finish up Direct, or up the arête. 12m.
FIRST ASCENTS
- The Rugby Club - P.Christie, G.Morris Pre-1991
- Big Crack - J.Bullock, L.Moran Pre-1991
- Phil Lynott - P.Christie, G.Morris Pre-1991
- Stepped Corner - J.Bullock, L.Moran Pre-1991
- Egged On - M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.11.1985
- Rampant Cockerel - C.Parkin, P.Blackburn 00.00.1985
- Don't Count Your Chickens - P.Blackburn, J.Kitching 00.00.1985
- Ruffled Feathers - M.Learoyd, R.Thomas, G.Royle 07.11.1985
- Gift Horse - G.Royle, R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 07.11.1985
- Wide Eyed And Legless - P.Blackburn, J.Kitching 00.00.1985
- Fought Shitening Crack - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.07.2001
- Alarm Race - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.07.2001
- Roast Dinner Man's Rift - M.Crocker 22.07.2001
- Hip 'Op - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 22.07.2001
- Piss Off - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000
- Lift Off - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000
- Blast Off - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 25.03.2000
- Right Edge - Unknown 00.00.1958
