The Little Gap

From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search


The Little Gap is a small but enjoyable bouldering venue near Abercynon. It is composed of a series of sandstone faces, some quarried, some natural. By far the best lines are to be found on the natural boulders, although some highball problems are of interest in the quarried section the crag. Similar in nature to Clogfaen Gigfran, the Little Gap hosts a series of quality problems, such as Loner (V4), Plunder Economy (V3) and Imperfect God (V3), which are a must for any aspiring local boulderer. The crag is quite sheltered and so is often climbable in light drizzle, however the quarried section in particular is extremely prone to seepage and will probably only dry in high summer. There is plenty of potential left for new routing, although one will have to bring a spade and a machete to unearth the tops of some problems.

J. Madison has details of bouldering in the vicinity


The best approach is to walk north from Abercynon, aiming for Incline Top, (the hill with power cables on it) walk round the hill until you pass a farm opposite a pylon. Walk for about a minute further on, past the corrugated sheet entrance on your left, until a series of boulders can be seen up the hill amongst the trees. Scramble through the bracken and the main section of the crag will be on the far left. Alternatively, take the same route as you would for the Gap but instead of turning right once past the A470 overpass, turn left. The crag will be on your right. Parking will be an issue. The exact location is available at:


No access problems have been encountered to date, but it is probably best not to make your presence felt too much, as the crag is very close to a nearby farm.