Nash Point

Nash Point
Steve Delaney, Gary Lewis and Nicola enjoying Nash Point sunshine
Rock Type	Natural Jurassic Limestone
Climbing Style	Dry Tooling
Approach Time	10 minutes
Area	South Coast
Geodata
WGS-84 Location	51.402817, -3.5600719
OS Grid Ref.	SS 915 682
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation	0 metres
General Info
Faces Direction	South
Aspect	Sunny
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
Midge Problem	Never
Seepage	Never
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide	6.0 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 2.0 km
Nash Point

BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionists permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes acceptable.

PREAMBLE

Crumbly looking sea cliffs with big flat breaks. A good fun spot.

Be prepared for a pump beyond your initial imagining.

Some climbs are possible in the rain. Wear a helmet and keep non combatants (children etc.) down the beach well away from the blockhead zone..Ravaged by the 2012/13 winter rains and tides.The boulder beach is level with the first bolts and the "arch" and nearby cliff are a pile of rubble on the foreshore.

ACCESS

This is the stretch of crags on the southern part of Nash Point. Not far from St Donat's.

There is a pay and display car park at the top of the cliffs. Park here and walk down the U shaped valley. The cliffs start immediately on your left and continue around the corner. The old gentleman at the car park/cafe is a bit of a busybody so to avoid causing offence keep your ropes in the sac until you are out of his sight. Outside of Easter-Sept he is no problem and the parking is free.

DESCENTS

Routes have individual bolt belays.

WESTERN JENGA PILLAR

A DRY TOOLING AREA, two lines of glue ins terminate after a few metres on a wide ledge threatened by the collapsing tower above.Needless to say approach with caution.

1. The Blocks of Damocles M6?
   Hook through the roofs to belay on ledge
   
   
2. Steve's opening gambit M4
   The wall R of roofs.
   
   

EASTERN SECTOR

OPEN TO DRY TOOLS TOO,IF YOU FEEL THE NEED WHACK AWAY HERE TO YOUR HEARTS CONTENT.This first part of the crag has collapsed and the resulting jumble of blocks are halfway up the crag,approach with caution!!!

1. Dai's Lemma - Fr. 6a
   Pumpy climbing on solid rock. Easier to start now the pebbles are high. 12m
   
   
2. Sutton's Stoned - Fr. 5+
   Similar stuff on flat breaks. 12m
   
   
3. Morgensten's Retort - Fr. 5+
   Looks a bit loose at the top. 12m
   
   
4. Von Neuman's Expression - Fr. 4+
   Nice climbing on the interestingly weathered mineral vein. 12m
   
   
5. Nash Equilibrium - Fr. 5
   More of the same,pumped yet? 12m
   
   
6. Tight as Matt's Underpants - Fr. 5
   Tight as his lower off. 12m
   
   
7. Tidy as Matt's Toybox - Fr. 5+
   Take a leaver biner. 12m
   
   There are more around the corner (through the arch) at a similar grade.In the boulder filled zawn find.....
   
   
8. Frege's Grundgesetze - VD
   The slabby left side of the zawn. 20m
   
   
9. Russell's Paradox- Fr. 6b
   The steep right wall of the zawn. 15m
   
   The walls to the right have only one route so far.
   
   
10. Myles Away- Fr. 6a
    Deceptively steep.20m
    
    

FIRST ASCENTS

1. R.Thomas N.O'Neill
2. R.Thomas
3. R.Thomas
4. R.Thomas
5. R.Thomas
6. M.Hirst R.Thomas G.Ashmore
7. R.Thomas N.O'Neill
8. R.Thomas N.O'Neill
9. R.Thomas M.Jordan