The mushrooms themselves 2.5 hours either side of low tide. The cove - 1 to 4 hours around low tide
Moonlit mushrooms merge into sea
salt washed, crystaline. While
oystercatchers mourn their trip into darkness
waiting to tiptoe into the day.
Hang by your fingertips !
Hope that the crystal holds,
for no hollow promise,
no bad trip,
no broken skull
Believe! Believe and pull
this time stopped instant through
your altered state of mind.
By Chris Wyatt 2010
This area is weird. The mushrooms themselves defy the sea and refuse to topple, giving big overhangs on jugs - but we warned of brittle holds, some poor landings and a tide which races in very quickly. It is not advisable to climb here alone. A number of good problems can also be found in the gullies leading up from the mushrooms. The cove lies 60m to the west. This offers some very amenable bouldering at a lower grade and some good sloper problems. The east wall of the cove gives good traversing and the far south wall more steep climbing. Further around at low tide one comes to a small cave which has yet to be developed and then further on about 60m west of the cove dogfight gully offers some good but tidal problems.
Park by the Castel del Mare restaurant and take the coast path west past Limeslade. When you get to a park bench overlooking the sea, cut in to the rock platform. Mushrooms are on your left and the cove is to your right.
To find your desired crag, type the name in to the Filter Markers box (top right corner of the map).
There are 4 mushrooms which are numbered from west to east. Various walls in the gullies can be found higher.
Mushrooms : First Gully This forms the westen border of the mushrooms area.
| The wall to the end of a highball pillar
2. Up via a downward pointing flake - take care with the rock - or use the hold just above the flake
3. The scoop via a vicious undercut.
| The pillar at the end of the wall
Mushroom number 1 - west Face
| Where else do you know where you can find three climbs akin to flying buttress direct on stanage all in the same place?
2. Sit start up steep jugs
3. Sit start, hook through two roofs
4. A very steep and very juggy roof - a good one to impress your mates on.
5. Sit start. Another steep and juggy roof .
The tunnel and continuation wall
Go through the rock tunnel at the landward side of mushroom No1.
| The pillar at the end of the wall
The face up towards the land is the continuation wall
1. Sit start. Keep Left of the crack on pockets
2. A Quality finger crack
3. Find a way up on holds between ( but not including) the crack and the arrete
4. The long march. Keep low on the top section. This is a great problem. We think all the friable holds have been broken off by now but beware the landings.
Mushroom No 2 - East Face An amazing lump of well cemented conglomerate with numerous bucket holds good fun!
2. Buckets on the Right
Mushroom No 3 - Landward face
Mushroom No 4 - West Face
The Cove A pleasant cove is found to the west of mushrooms. The problems on the landward end hold out a little longer against the tide than the mushrooms themselves.
On the west side of the cove is a long wall with caves and numerous boulders. This is christened 'Notched wall' At the lower end the rock is quite sharp but the problems at the landward end are good quality. On the East Side of the cove there is a south facing wall and round the corner a single problem. All on good quality rock.
The Cove : South Face RHs
| This is the first piece of rock you arrive at in the cove. Great for warm up with a more juicy problems on the right hand side
1. The Chimney
2. Layback on the right edge of the chimney
3. A tricky move using a small fin of rock on the wall. Sit start
4. A trickier problem to the right using the sloping ledge
5. The Right wall using some good slopers
The Cove : South Face LHs
| This is worth seeking out for its technical merit. It faces west and is just round the corner from the South wall
2. The Jamming crack
The Cove : Notched Wall
| This is the piece of Rock on the landward end of the wall. It is slightly impending and deceptively difficult
1. LH Problem
2. RH Problem
| This can be found 60m west of the cove
1. Shares a start with Cat fight but straight up
2. Cat Fight V2 :From a sit start under the roof on a good hold, launch up to slopers on the small headwall, traverse on the head wall until you can escape upwards.
3. Straight up to the finish of Cat fight
7. jam doughnut V3 : Start as for Cat fight but take a low transfer line to a jam and then go straight up.
4. The traverse on slopers. V2
5. Dog Fight V3 * : Worthwhile. Start in the left wall of the cave on an obvious flat hold. A good finger lock in the roof allows a difficult move to a sloper in the steep right wall, followed by rounded jugs. Cut loose and swing to the top
6. Straight up to the finish of Dog fight
8. Cats and dogs . The complete traverse.