Limeslade

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TIDAL STATUS

Main face accessible 4 hours around low tide. The top of the wedge is non tidal except when there is a swell running. If there is a swell you could drown. The gulley is non tidal

PREAMBLE

Limeslade waves

Tonight,

as your father lies weakening

I wrap your hand in mine,

lead you to the edge to watch

the storm swell run the tide

into the heart of Limeslade


These Waves,

five thousand miles they've come

their start, perhaps, a ripple off Newfoundland.

Power stolen from the winds until possessed,

they dash their heads against these rocks,

their white graffiti shot high,

high on a storm black canvas.

They whisper wisdom.


A passing car lights up your face

white salt crystals glisten at the edge of tears.

and now you know, It’s time!

It's time to stop the fighting

By Chris Wyatt 2010



Limeslade is one of the most accessible bouldering areas on the gower. Unfortunately the main wall oozes green gunge requiring quite a dry spell before the better problems can be attempted. The Wedge offers a few pleasant jug pulling exercises. For those of you who like squirming, there are some interesting small caves on the west side of the bay.

ACCESS



To find your desired crag, type the name in to the Filter Markers box (top right corner of the map).

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Follow Swansea Bay right round to Mumbles Head. Go round the corner. Park by the Castell del Mare restaurant in the Mumbles and walk westwards down the grass.

THE BOULDERING

There are four areas.

The Wedge is on the East side of the bay - Steep problems on waveworn rock dominate here. To the west of this is a gulley with a good traversing line. The main area is just to the east of the bottom of the steps. To the West of the cove you will find a hotchpotch of rock , which offers good, if esoteric climbing



The Wedge

Beware of the swell!


These photos were taken 10 seconds apart


Peace and tranquility
Interrupted suddenly
The Wedge LHS


1. Sit start and straight up

2. Start as for previous route, then traverse right to the end of the nose

3. A harder version of the previous route. Keep to the lower break and put in a high heel hook once you are on the nose. A very good problem on excellent rock

The Wedge LHS


1. The roof is held up by a predestal. Make a long reach from this to holds on the lip, Continue left and up

2.To the right of the pedestal there arc shaped crack/flake withinteresting conglogerate formations. Take this to the lip and then onup.

3. 'Raspberries' Start as for 2 but make a link into 1 via a painful rasp like sloper. Continue to the nose , around it and climb to the top left of the wall. Basically a right to left traverse of the crag. A good challenge at V4/5



The Gully

The gully


1. Long low traverse. An excellent warm up but marred by poor rock at the top end. You might want to miss that section.

2. The right arête of the prominent corner

There are numerous other possibilities here but non of them shatter the earth

The Main Area

The main area


1. Up over the bulge on pockets and smears

2. A long traverse - good warm up

The next three problems are quite technical

3. Harder than it looks - The long awaited jug does not quite exist

4. The center side of the smooth wall

5. The right side of the smooth wall

6. The bulge - Lots of ways up/round this

7. Highball cruising

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