OS 170 922990
Ice screws, warthogs and pure faith here. He who hesitates ... becomes frost!
Here lies three highly recommended ice falls. The first and most likely to form at (although the first pitch doesn't always form) is the mighty Virgin Falls. When this is in condition it is the easily seen from the A4061, as the wide ribbon of ice flowing off of the hill side above Blaencwm. The other two falls were known to take a long time to form even in the Eighties when conditions were far more favourable but can provide enjoyable lines.
North West of Treherbert. Turn off the A4061 onto the B4522 follow road to Blaen Cwm and turn right just before you enter Blaencwm. Park at the forestry car park. Note that road signs are somewhat scarce after you turn off of the A4061.
Leave the car park by the path heading up the hill through the edge of the forest at the entrance to the car park. Continue up until you get to a split in the path. To get to Virgin Falls take the left hand turning which descends a little, cross the first foot bridge at the second foot bridge turn off of the path and follow the stream up to the base of the fall. To get to the other climbs follow the original path straight up.
Here lies your own mountain sense. You can either abseil off or walk down the mentioned paths.
1 Virgin Falls IV *** 100m
Scramble up the stream from the second foot bridge until you reach the base of the waterfall. This first pitch is the grade IV crux of the climb the following pitches go at grade III. If the first pitch is not fully formed it is possible to bypass the pitch by grass and heather scrambling and or turf bashing up either side of the fall, note that it is steep in places and the left hand side has an awkward traverse.
- 20m Climb the wall to a tree belay on the right.
- 40m Continue up. A good rock belay can be found on the right hand side at the base of the next step.
- 40m Move back to the centre of the fall and climb straight up to the top of the fall. The fence belay mentioned in the guide book appears to have gone.
2 Left Wall III 75m
The guide book says "A good climb with a vicious little start." To the left of the Hose is a line of overhangs. Start near the left end of these at a short icicle.
- 40m Climb the icicle, the guide book says that if the icicle is not there then use wild moves up the rock. Then continue up easier ground to a tree belay below and left of the steep upper wall.
- 35m Move back right and climb the centre of the wall.
3 The Hose IV 30m
Guide book states that this climb takes along time to form and recommends a set of waterproofs for an ascent in what is termed normal conditions. Start at the back of Cwm Lluest on the right hand side of the obvious fall. Climb steeply to a niche (possible peg still in situ, not checked!) Move left and finish direct.
1. H. Griffiths, G. Lewis 22/Feb/1983
2. G. Lewis, C Heard 19??
3. H. Griffiths, T. Jordan & G. Lewis 19/Jan/1985