Barry Island and Friars Point

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BOLTING POLICY

No bolting assumed at present

PREAMBLE

Not in the guidebook.

A popular valley's family weekend holiday spot with plenty of chippy's and amusement arcades.

Beware of kids, above the routes, holding an ice cream cone.

There are public toilets so no need to bring toilet paper.

ACCESS

Via well trodden paths.

DESCENTS

Yes

BOULDERING

Top 'family' bouldering venue, best in Wales.

On eastern side of esplanade is a vertical traversing wall with loads of bolt on holds and millions of thin slivers of slippery plastic.

Around this area are precast concrete panel walls, many vertical, some slabby, a couple of cracks, arêtes and corners.

At beach level are limestone masonry sea walls, these are good too.

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Barry bouldering 1.jpg
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THE ROUTES

Information supplied by Mark Salter Monday, July 09, 2007

Attached are the 2 topos for Barry Island. Couldn't find the one I created before so recreated it (attached as "barry topo.jpg"). Can't remember the route name I gave route 2 on this topo, but it was about VS 4c. Route 1 was claimed by Chris Constantine but was climbed by Dave before.

Barry topo.jpg

The other one is the one Chris sent us before with a new route (I think), no. 8, that I led with Dave yesterday, 9/7/7. Probably severe (ish) and unnamed it follows a crack until it runs out, then continues straight to the top.

Could do with a photo of the bit of steep, short crag immediately left of the main wall (about 6 feet ledt of the "friarspoint copy.jpg" photo) to see if Tucker previously climbed the route we did on Sunday. Steep & crimpy, short (~15 feet), some gear at about 7 feet, no idea how to grade it. About 5b I would think but I'm crap at grading things. Any idea Dave?

Friarspoint copy.jpg