Sheriff Quarry, Maerdy
|Sheriff Quarry, Maerdy|
|Rock Type||Quarried Sandstone|
|Sub Area||Sandstone Western Valleys|
|WGS-84 Location||51.675450, -3.4919472|
|OS Grid Ref.||SS 969 984|
|WGS-84 Parking Location|
|GR Parking Location|
|Base Elevation||404 metres (SRTM Estimation)|
|Crags Within 5.0 km.|
Blaenllechau, Bwlch Mountain Road, Clydach Vale Cambrian Quarry, Cwmaman Main, Cwmaman West, Ferndale Lower Quarry, Ferndale Main, Ferndale Right, Gelli, Llwynypia, Maerdy - Rhondda Fach, Pontygwaith Quarry, Sheriff Quarry, Maerdy, Ton Pentre, Treherbert Quarry, Tylorstown Quarry
Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. Place bolts high so kids can't tamper with them.
A compact sports quarry. Easterly facing and slightly overhanging dries quickly with an unfortunate proximity to Maerdy. High first bolts so a clip stick is essential.
As the A4233 enters Maerdy it turns sharply right. At this point turn left up School Road, past a bus depot, and then turn right on to Mile Street/Edward Street. Park here (if you dare). From the northern end of Edward Street a track leads winds upwards towards the forest. As the track reaches the edge of the forest a steep track lead up into the forest. Follow this steep track directly into the quarry. A pillar marks the quarry entrance.
Topping out is difficult due to a band of loose rock, so all routes have lower-offs or adjacent lower-offs.
- The Sheriff of Loves Brown Canyon - Fr. 6b+
Very sustained climbing up a twisting crack becoming increasingly difficult until a mud-filled shot hole offers a brief respite.
- Maerdy Gra - Fr. 6c
Scramble onto dusty ledge to start sustained climbing on very spaced out cracks, finger jams and pockets. Relentless.
- Kremlin Capers - Fr. 6b+
Sustained fingery climb to fist jam.
- Little Moscow - Fr. 6b
Face climbing in the right of the quarry.
- D. Emanuel 03/06/2009
- D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 26/04/2010
- R. Thomas
- R. Thomas 26/04/2010
- R. Thomas 03/06/2009