Caswell Bay (Bouldering)

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TIDAL STATUS

The White wall is not tidal on neap tides . Areas at the bottom of the beach 3 hours either side of high tide

PREAMBLE

Tom Palfreyman on SuperArête


I was slightly bored as

I shuffled along at Charlie’s pace

across the beach at Caswell bay

But had to smile when

he threw a hand full of sand

aimed at a passing dog, he missed,

hit a not-so-happy older couple

( tut tutt and stare!)


but then he gasped,

was practically paralysed

grasped at my hand and pointed at

a 'boulderer' poised to move across the rock

A shirtless back framing muscularity.


And I watched a toe glide into a crystal eye

and a grace I seldom see in men

shine through a movement into sky


I pulled away,

told him not to stare (Charlie)

and in my mind I rolled a joint

I wished I'd never seen this thing

The sky man, my son

and what I think he could become.

by chris wyatt 2008


The easterly wall of Caswell bay offers a number of pleasant problems. Be prepared for kids to be curious!

ACCESS

Drive up through Mumbles High Street and turn left at the Baptist church. Carry on until you reach the car park at Caswell Bay.

To find your desired crag, type the name in to the Filter Markers box (top right corner of the map).

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THE BOULDERING

The crystal wall

The White wall
 This is the first wall you will see heading down the beach. Quite highball but a great warm up area. Ask politely if you can climb behind the family which is invariably camped here (even in winter!)


1. Complete traverse of the wall and further rightwards

2. A line on the left

3. A lineup the middle (variatons)

4. Up through the cave

5. Enter the large cave on the right - squirm round the corner and exit the small cave on the left

The Wave

File:CaswellWave1.jpg
The Wave
 Another good warm up area with an excellent crimpy problem through the middle


1. Kids stuff to the left

2. Up to the enormous flat topped hold and onwards

3. A line just to the right

4. A line using a deep finger mono in the centre of the wall for the right hand

5. A line using a two/three finger pocket in the centre of the wall for the left hand, Try not to use the holds on the right arrete but you will probably have to

6. Enter the niche with some difficulty

7. Crimpy overhanging stuff to the right

8. A crackly pop line

The Playground

The Playground
 another good warm up area


1.-3 easier lines A great game here is to take any of the easier lines taking it in turns to eliminate holds

The Gully

The Gully
 Interesting but can ming


1. The obvious crack breaking right (HighBall)

2. The crozzly area to the right

3. It gets harder here

The Bible

The Bible
 This problem is worth finding. It's on the upper tier where the beach turns left.


1. Climb the wall via an amazing crimp hold veering off left. Straight up is harder

The Towers

The towers
 This set of highballs will probably get you fluttering!

1. A warm up slab

2. A Crack/face climb. Can be painfull

3. A line hase been reported up the right hand crack. It probably requires a 30 day drought and calm seas before it is climbable

4. Suprisingly tricky especially for those trained on climbing walls. Very highball but it is fairly easy at the top

5. One move wonder on the small block


The Tower Block

The towers
 Appalling landings but great climbing.

1. Up the arrete

The lines to the right are for the brave/foolish

The Square Block

The SquareBlock
 A popular little area 100 meters east of the Towers. The rock is sound but tends to be a bit damp. Bring plenty of chalk to enjoy these superb problems on the impending wall

1. The scoop on the left wall

2. The arête ( Try to avoid using the shoulder as a foot hold)

3. Up the wall and through the bulge

4. The crack

5.Launch to the jug and then crimp to the top

6. Sit start at the pedestal crimp to the jug then rightwards to the top

7. From a rounded boulder make a big reach to a massive jug then up to the top

8 Right arrete


Chip off the block

The Chip

1. A one off problem opposite the block. It's small but packs a big punch. A sit start may be required


100m further east along the coast path a small cove appears. This is caswell far East, This has a number of interesting walls and features which are described from left to right

Barnacle bill

Barnacle Bill

1. Fairly Easy on the left hand side

2. Steep and lacking the customry jugs in these parts

3. A few hardish crimps

4. the arrete- a steep layback on the right of the wall

Canine

The canine

1. Reasonable on the left

2. Sharp on the right

3. 'K9' V4 * Even harder if you traverse right to a sloper and up the obvious flake. (There is probably a direct line up to the flake at around V5)


Wall and arête

The Arrete

This high ball wall boasts possibly the best boulder problem in caswell

1. The cracks in the middle of the wall

2. A line between the arrete and the crack

3. 'Super Arête' claimed to be V5 but probably V3. Nevertheless this is a 'must do' problem



HB Gully Right

Central Tor

Behind the central tor you will find a high ball gully which in some places has really good rock. If it is dryish, Moon mouse play pad is excellent and worth finding.

1. Technical moves up to the spike, Jump off or risk it

2. Start to the right of the large block in the middle of the gully. Pull up on crimps until you get to a wonderfule right facing pocket. From here amble rightwards and to the top

3. 'Moon mouse play pad ** V2/3' A wonderful highball on good limestone pockets. A sit start on the lowest pockets gives a powerful start.


|

Central Tor LHS

Central Tor

The central tor has a few harder problems on its LHS and some easier ones on the right. Check the quality of the holds as you pull over the top. The last person who fell here broke a wrist, a heel and and ankle.

1. The line through a square block which might fall off oneday

2. the line up the arrete. Hard to start

3. A highball, easier if you use the crack

There are numerous easier lines to the right


| The Arch

The Arch
The Arch

Steep juggy stuff which benefits for dry weather and calm seas


1. The line up the left hand side of the arch. Sit start. A good devious problem

2. An interesting Sit start through very steep territory. Hand jamming can help (ouch!)




Right of the arch

Problem Right of arch


1. A perplexing line through the smooth area. Sides are out of bounds (sorry - if I showed you the line you would not enjoy the conundrum)


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